A decent but very expensive North African restaurant, with franchises in posh corners like Selfridges, Momos is a byword for upmarket indulgence thanks to the basement bar of this flagship restaurant, which has conferred seemingly unshakeable cool on its smiling Morrocan owner.

Momo's has been fashionable forever. It is pretty tough to get into on weekends unless you have an A list date, which is one reason to eat upstairs first. Even this doesn't automatically entitle you to go downstairs but it will give you a chance to charm your way in. Being charming in a queue is more difficult.

Celebrities, cocktails, and comfy seats. That is Momos. It is always fun and the whole experience is enhanced by genuinely friendly management who make a point of not ignoring normal punters when Johnny Depp walks in. Well, not too blatantly anyway.

Please note: this place is as expensive as it gets. How we managed to spend an entire evening in here without running off for a silent weep about our bank balance, we don't know.