For something that sounds like it could be the next instalment in a dodgy slasher trilogy, the Palaces of Death walking tour is actually a very enjoyable way to spend an evening.
Not usually one for sheep-herding style excursions, the opportunity to glean a few gruesome facts about our great capital and the promise of being transported into London’s bloodied past certainly appealed to my more morbid sensibilities. Anyone with a penchant for Sherlock Holmes or the darkened city lanes depicted in Dickens novels might agree.
It was a dark, stormy night (wait, haven’t we heard this one before…) which seemed very apt for the occasion as Fred Strangebone- sombrely dressed in black and clutching a hurricane lantern- lead us into Green Park to begin the tour. Better known as Ben Whitehead, when he’s not trying to scare unsuspecting tourists, Fred’s background in acting and stand-up comedy transforms the walk into more of a moving performance than a tour. Aside from a couple of awkward silences and a little nervous laughter from the group, his dry wit proved successful.
Whilst Fred’s eerie manner and dramatic pauses do bring to life his string of murderous stories, it’s difficult to truly immerse yourself whilst the tail end of 21st Century rush hour traffic hums tunefully in the background. However once we got away from the busy main roads and began to explore the quieter backstreets and alleyways of St James and Westminster, you could almost believe you were strolling through 19th Century London.
The highlights of the outing include a stop next to a miniature tombstone in Waterloo Place- marking the grave of Ambassador Leopold von Hoesch’s beloved pet dog- and a stroll through St James’s Park. Spooky? Not really, but intriguing nonetheless. Pausing on the bridge across the park’s lake allowed us to drink in spectacular views of Buckingham Palace and the London Eye at night.
Our excursion ended at St James’s Palace and after learning that the heart and bowels of Mary I were buried under our feet, we ended up in the Red Lion pub for a well deserved pint. The so-called lantern walks are very tourist friendly however I wouldn’t rule them out for the natives- as a tea guzzling, queue loving, true Brit I found the evening both informative and fun, although this cynical Londoner has yet to be scared.
Tour price: £8 on the night, £6.50 when booked in advance online.
See when Palaces of Death on the site for more details.
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