Emma McAlpine discovers a slice of Provence sunshine on Chancery Lane.
I often relish the chance to visit Chancery Lane, wandering past buildings like Ede & Ravenscroft, London's oldest tailors, pretending I'm a character from Bleak House, there on an urgent matter of secret family business. Although my car got clamped outside The Law Society the other day, which slightly burst my Dickensian bubble.
Baranis can be found at No.115 Chancery Lane, and while it may be situated in the old vaulted cellars of a former auction house, it would certainly look out of place in the 19th century now. Provence is the inspiration, with eight brands of the region's aniseed-flavoured liqueur stocked behind the bar and a snacks menu bursting with Mediterranean goodies such as anchovy and black olive pissaladière (a savoury tart), socca (a chickpea pancake, rather rubbery in texture yet strangely moreish) and lamb and rosemary skewers, all at around £4.
The food is simple, rustic and delicious. I'm not nearly enough of a fan of aniseed to drink pastis like the French – with a little water – so instead opt for a cocktail called 'La Pagnol', a blend of pastis, lychee, elderflower and cranberry juice, topped off with a sprig of rosemary. It's positively ambrosial and the pastis gives it a subtle kick without being overpowering.
My friend and I finish with a cheese board straight out of Provence, made up of goat and ewe cheeses ("The land is too flat for cows!" Yohann, the bar manager tells us), ranging from the creamy Rove des Garrigues to a smear of runny, pungent Larzac. Coupled with toasted, nutty bread and violet jelly, this is a perfect accompaniment to a glass of fruity Corsican red that Yohann recommends we try.
With its indoor Pétanque court (great fun after a Pagnol or two), brick walls and lime green pillars, Baranis has a fun and quirky vibe, and a very different feel to its more sophisticated sister restaurant, Cigalon, located upstairs. The one thing missing is the buzz – we are the only people in the place tonight – but then, it is a Tuesday and we are in the hard-working city. I for one shall definitely be visiting Baranis again. A post-work Pétanque tournament is beckoning...
Return to Spoonfed's London food and drink section.
Click here for things to do in London.
Add an event
Review: The Company You Keep
Robert Redford, an iconic face of Western cinema whose influence for decades has weighe...