The rise of the Campari cocktail (and the 10 best places to drink it in London)

The rise of the Campari cocktail (and the 10 best places to drink it in London)

04 April, 2012
by: Emma

Why does every cocktail menu now have a Negroni on it? When did Campari come back into fashion, and where are the best establisments to drink it? Emma McAlpine investigates...

My love affair with Campari began in my late teens. It was the favourite tipple of a glamorous Italian friend of mine and I think I hoped that if I started drinking it, I might suddenly look rather glamorous as well. Needless to say, I didn't, but I've always maintained a fondness for its unusual flavour. A blend of aromatic herbs, fruit (including the sour chinotto orange), alcohol and water; Campari’s bitter taste isn’t for everyone.  But attitudes are changing. In London particularly, Campari has undergone something of a renaissance.

Now, no London cocktail menu would be seen dead without a Negroni on it; that powerful yet surprisingly quaffable drink, made up of equal parts Campari, sweet vermouth and gin. One friend of mine recently found herself being advised on how to make a ‘Negroni Sbagliato’ (swapping the gin for Prosecco) when buying Campari in a supermarket. What's more, whole bars have sprung up in honour of the stuff, from Frank Boxer's rooftop pop-up in Peckham to Russell Norman’s underground den in Soho. So when did Campari suddenly become so fashionable? And why are we now embracing its bitter taste? 

Tony Conigliaro, owner and bartender of 69 Colebroke Row, believes that a burgeoning bar and cocktail culture has caused our taste buds to change. “The bartending world has evolved alongside advances in technology,” he tells me. “Whereas the bartenders of the past had to rely on hard-to-find classic cocktail books, the internet with its abundance of food and drink sites, blogs and forums has opened up a new flow of information between international bartenders and chefs alike. This access to new flavours and techniques has been passed across to the customer, and without doubt has been the drive behind the changing palates of the consumer.”

We’ve certainly become a more adventurous nation with what we eat, so it’s no surprise that British cocktail menus are evolving as well. Pitt Cue Co bartender Fran Astbury says: “People are more open to trying big and bold flavours now. I think this goes hand in hand with the St John food movement – people trying more unusual food cuts and offal. The time for subtle, delicate drinks has passed. This is exactly what we are doing with our cocktails at Pitt Cue: they are big, ballsy drinks with strong, punchy flavours. When people walk into a bar now they seem to be more willing to put the experience in the bartender's hands and go with something new and exciting.”

Campari’s top four world markets are Brazil, France, Italy and Germany, but increasing sales in the UK have made it a new contender for the brand’s attentions. Christophe Schaillee, Regional Director of Campari International’s Europe Region tells me: “We have certainly seen a rise in popularity for Campari, especially within London, where classic cocktails such as the Negroni are coming back in to vogue. I think it shows that consumers in the UK are looking towards a more continental style of drinking – quality over quantity. The UK’s increased interest and demand for Campari has made it an important focus market.”

So what’s the reason behind this sudden boost in sales? A new generation of influential bartenders and restaurateurs could be the answer. Russell Norman, the man behind popular ‘small plate’ restaurants Polpo, Polpetto, Spuntino and Mishkins has long been a fan of the drink and makes sure it has pride of place on all his cocktail menus. He tells me his passion for Italian culture goes back a long way:

“I have been visiting Venice for the last 25 years, firstly as a hopelessly romantic Englishman having fallen in love with the city's architecture and art, and latterly as a restaurateur, researching Venice's hidden culinary heritage. When I'm in Venice, I try to do what the locals do, eat what the locals eat and drink what the locals drink. They tend to drink Spritz – a simple cocktail of bitters, white wine and soda. The bitters tend to be either Campari or Aperol. I suppose my love of Campari stems from those first few Spritzes beside the San Trovaso bridge in Dorsoduro.”

He adds: “I think Polpo had a part in popularising Campari in London when it opened two and a half years ago, although I had noticed a resurgence in the fortunes of the Negroni over several years before that.” Interestingly, he tells me that that Polpo is now the single largest consumer of Campari in the UK, which might not seem that much of a surprise when you come across his Campari bar: a little room found through an unmarked door underneath the main restaurant. Every time I’ve ventured down there for a pre-prandial drink, it’s been lively and packed. 

Frank's Campari Bar, Peckham

Another champion of the red stuff is 25-year-old Frank Boxer, who runs a summertime pop-up cafe and Campari bar in Peckham. Located on top of a multi-storey car park, the bar was set up in 2009 to run alongside a temporary art exhibition. No one could have predicted quite how much of a success it would become, least of all Boxer. “I thought I’d just be hanging out with some kids, and then it suddenly did really well!” he reflects.  “I love the juxtaposition between this chic drink, with connotations of the 1950s Riviera, and a car park roof in Peckham. Every year we seem to get busier. We're doubling the size of the bar this year and licensing the whole roof so we won’t have to turn so many people away.”

Fran Astbury, who managed Frank's bar for two years, looks back on her time there fondly: “It was amazing, sometimes it felt like we were campaigning for Campari, having hundreds of people on the roof drinking mainly Campari cocktails. I like to think we helped some people discover their love for it. We did get a lot of people who were already fans of it and they would always come and tell us how great it is that it’s getting more popular.”

Rather organically it would seem, Campari has gone from being the weird aunt of the drinks world to its cool cousin. Not that the regeneration of a drink is a new concept. The swelling of London’s tapas bars in recent years has caused sherry to enjoy a similar comeback and who’d have thought a marketing campaign with a few cubes of ice would do so much for cider? Now, thanks to some passionate cocktail mavens and a change in the British palate, Campari is back in favour. For some of course, it’s never been out. 

Want to sample some of London’s finest Campari cocktails? Check out a list of 10 of our favourite purveyors:

Trullo, Highbury
Their Negroni is served with a sprig of burnt rosemary nicely complimenting its aromatic flavour. Alternatively, try the Trullo Sbagliato: a light, expertly balanced combination of Campari, quince liqueur, orange bitters and prosecco.

Frank’s Campari Bar, Peckham
Frank recommends their Americano ("It makes the world seem sunnier"), and the Bicyclette, a Campari spritz featured in Fergus Henderson’s book Beyond Nose to Tail – so named “because of all the old men who drink it and go weebling home upon their bicycles.” It’s a simple but winning combination of dry white wine and Campari served over ice. Henderson says of the drink: “I’ve converted many folks to this. And life should be about conversions, shouldn’t it? Pleasure should be infectious.” Quite.

The American Bar @ The Savoy, Strand
Inspired by Princess Diana, the ‘Blushing Monarch’ was originally created here by Salim Khoury, who won the UK’s Barman of the Year competition for it in 1992. This updated version combines Bombay Sapphire gin, Campari, blood orange, passion fruit, and a squeeze of fresh lemon juice.

Polpo Campari Bar, Soho
Norman’s cocktail of choice here is the classic Negroni. “It's the perfect balance of gin, Campari and sweet vermouth.  But for a lighter drink with the same delicious bitterness, try a Negroni Sbagliato (literally meaning a "wrong" Negroni).

Hawksmoor, Seven Dials
Their ‘St James Negroni’ is a subtle variant of the classic cocktail comprising of No.3 St James’ gin, Campari and Americano Cocchi, a delicate vermouth from Asti that dates back to 1891.

69 Colebrow Row, Islington
Tony recommends their Death in Venice cocktail. “A more Spritz-like version of the Spagliato, the Death In Venice combines Campari, Prosecco and homemade grapefruit bitters, which add a whole new dimenson to the flavour profile of Campari. Infinitely refreshing!”

Pitt Cue Co, Soho
The LBC (lime, bourbon and Campari), is the staff’s favourite drink at Pitt Cue and I can vouch for its deliciousness. Fran says: “It is so bitter and refreshing; it’s perfect after a mad busy shift.” 

The Rookery, Clapham 
No-nonsense classics at very reasonable prices. They serve a mean Americano for £4.50. Other Campari cocktails like Negronis and Bicylettes are available. 

Brunswick House Cafe, Vauxhall
A quirky Aladdin’s Cave of a restaurant with an excellent cocktail list. We like their version of the Negroni – the ‘Negrown-up’ with Navy strength Plymouth gin, Carpano antica formula (red vermouth) and Campari.

Pizza East Portobello, Ladbroke Grove
This relaxed Italian restaurant now has an ‘Aperitivo’ bar, serving Prosecco and Italian-inspired cocktails like Negronis and Aperol Spritzes from 5-7pm, Monday-Wednesday. What’s more, you can soak up the booze with free antipasto like beef carpaccio, lardo and pear crostini, pizette and grilled sardines, served on large wooden boards at the bar. Er, YUM.

Photo credit (Frank's Bar): Richard Bryant

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Emma