Vice magazine is celebrating the launch of its annual photo issue
tonight with a photography exhibition at the Printspace on Kingsland
Road. The theme is portraiture, and collections will include both
unseen archive material and newly commissioned work.
I'm waiting
at Old Street station for a characteristically tardy friend. I start
speculating as to which passers-by might be on their way to Vice, it
seems there's a mini exodus of lumberjack shirts, Doc Martens and biker
jackets, from underground. Admittedly, I've been relishing the thought
of reviewing the exhibition, and the chance to lambast the magazine's
stereotypical Old Blue Lastian reader.
I'm probably being
unfair and hypocritical, and approaching anything with narrow
expectations is hardly good practice. But the self-perpetuated
association of Vice with contrived, anarchic, promiscuous fashionistas
is inescapable; and this alluring but somewhat vacuous aesthetic is as
visible in the queue to get into the gallery, as it is on the
exhibition walls.
The first collection I see is 'Jail-Bait
Core' by Dara Goldstein, a set of portraits of adolescent boys in punk
clothing. One stripling is smoking a cigarette, wearing black denim,
and a black baseball cap with 'suicidal' written on the peak. He
doesn't look like he tidies his bedroom very often. Another boy wears a
Black Flag t-shirt with cut off sleeves, he too is smoking. Goldstein's
blurb explains, 'There are heavy metaphysical, theosophical and occult
undertones in my work. It's about the absence of fear and the pursuit
of happiness'. They are powerful photographs, shot naturalistically,
and the facial expressions they capture do typify a youthful punk
spirit. But the swelling hubris of the photographer insults the photos,
which seem so monstrously pretentious when attributed with a
theological dimension.
Another exhibitor, Maggie Lee, has
created a collection entitled 'Frenching', which frames couples
kissing. I quite like it for its intimacy. One particularly delicate
shot shows two girls mouth to mouth, almost silhouetted against rayed
sunlight. Lee describes the impetus behind the collection, 'I work on a
zine called 'Frenching', an idiosyncratic visual diaristic publication
on crazy, sexy, cool, wayward youth'. If ever a phrase
crystallised a Vice stereotype, Ms Lee has just topped it with that
utterance. The magazine markets 'crazy, sexy, cool, wayward youth' like
a product, and this gallery is high with the funk of it. Maybe I'm
overlooking an editorial subtlety, though; maybe Vice is taking an
ironic jab at artistic pretentiousness rather than whole-heartedly
buying into it. If Lee's collection isn't a case of the latter, then the
joke's on me.
Indeed, Jamie Taete's, 'Chubbs' (2009)
collection expresses Vice's self consciousness of its own sexed up
image. 'Chubbs' contains portraits of obese naked men in their
domestic surroundings: lying on beds, on sofas, or standing in the
living room shielding their genitals with teddy bears. 'I wanted to
take pictures of fat men to try to counteract some of the pictures of
skinny naked girls that I assumed (correctly, by the way) would be
dominating the pages of this year's photo issue'. Two men stand out in
particular: the buxom, ginger haired Joe, who sits on the toilet; and
Jonathon, who reclines on his single bed in a Shoreditch uniform of
Levi's denim shirt and that Morrissey haircut. The self parody is
pleasing.
It would, therefore, be a massive oversight to regard
Vice as perpetually swimming in the shallow end of the journalistic
pool. For all its fluff and fucking, there is a raw, subversive
ballsiness about Vice which I admire, and its immersionist style of
photo journalism is something which commands respect. Maybe it's also
more difficult to be sarcastic after my fourth free beer.
My favourite collection is Martynka
Wawrzyniak's 'Kids' (2009). She has photographed the faces of several
children against a white background. The children look variously manic,
angry, bored, macabre, venomous, and sombre, and I see myself as a
child, in my back garden, giving dead insects burial ceremonies,
complete with Gregorian chants and the laying down of flowers. So if
Vice indulges our voyeurism by showing us breasts bound in bondage
rope, it also addresses the innate perversity of children. And that
takes balls.
Whilst admiring Wawrzyniak's work, I'm
approached by a stranger. I don't think the temperature in here quite
justifies his excessive sweating. 'Who are these kids?', he asks, half
smirking, as if pre-empting a punch line. I don't react and he thinks I
haven't heard him, so he blunders on, 'Who are these kids?...Baby P's
brothers and sisters?'
I wonder, staring dumbstruck at the
clammy gizzard of this arch-arsehole, whether I have come face to face
with Vice's famous 'Dos and Don'ts' man.
Time to leave.
Click here for things to do in Hoxton and Shoreditch
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