The new kid on the Chinatown block.
What is it? A three storey, Chinese-themed townhouse, serving up premium cocktails, tea and dumplings.
Where is it? In à la mode speakeasy fashion, you can find Opium behind an unmarked jade door at 15-16 Gerrard Street, Chinatown, next to Dumpling’s Legend. Burly bouncer on the door is the giveaway.
Look: The decor is a mix of antique and modern styles, from all over China. Head to the top floor attic and you might think you’ve stumbled into someone’s loft party. There are book shelves, retro comfy armchairs, Chinese rugs and a kitchen area with a massive bartender’s table which you can sit around while your cocktail is whipped up. If you’d rather sit one on one, there are some cosy Orient Express-style carriage booths with their own luggage racks. By day, the apothecary lounge is an airy tea parlour that’s ideal for a quiet brew in the afternoon; while at night, the bar’s dark corners, amber lighting and curious pharmaceutical bottles give the place its namesake opium den feel.
Booze: Cocktails are high end and inspired by the Orient, with many ingredients sourced from local Chinatown supermarkets. Renowned mixologist Dre Masso runs a school for aspiring bartenders in the attic and after watching the impressive theatrics of the bartenders here, you can see why this might prove popular. The Opium cocktail No 1 is a house speciality which comes with a two per person warning. A heady blend of rum, absinthe, mandarin juice, lime juice, lime syrup and citrus bitters, it’s served in a smoking opium pipe with a ginseng capsule on the side for an energy boost. For a zesty pick-me-up, try the Laughing Buddha - made with gin, triple sec, kumquat, blood orange, Chinese spiced syrup and orange blossom.
Food: Gourmet dim sum is delivered via dumb waiter from the Dumpling’s Legend, one of the best places for dumplings in Chinatown, located next door. The menu has 10 equally enticing options from poppy seed lobster toast, to crab and samphire dumplings and pillowy char sui buns.
How much? At around 12.50 for a cocktail, £5.50 for a pot of tea and between £6.50-£11 for a two person dim sum plate; Opium is expensive but not outrageous considering the quality of what’s on offer. We reckon it would be ideal for some first date cocktails and nibbles, but the more cash-strapped might prefer to pop in for a quick pre-prandial drink before visiting one of the cheaper restaurants in the area for dinner.
Extras: The loos are a talking point, don’t be surprised when you hear a Chinese man shouting at you while you're in there. For a special occasion you can hire The Den, a private dining room which holds about 25 people. There’s a Narnia-esque wardrobe to put your coats and bags in, banquette seating, low and high tables, 1920’s lampshades and the sound is fixed so you can either play your own music via an ipod or bring-your-own DJ equipment.
Opening times and booking: Monday - Saturday, 5pm - 12am, Sunday 12pm - 12am. Unlike the Experimental Cocktail Club down the road, it’s not difficult to get a table here, but it’s advisable to call in advance to book one, especially on the weekends.
opiumchinatown.com
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