Tom Jeffreys enjoys the relaxed atmosphere (and wonderful wine-list) at Bistro du Vin.
Opened in April 2011, Bistro du Vin is the latest extension of the Hotel du Vin brand: a straightforward and surprisingly cosy addition to Clerkenwell's thriving array of high-end restaurants. It's clearly been a success, as July saw the launch of another branch open on Dean Street in Soho, and from our experience it's fairly easy to see why.
With exposed bricks, mismatched salon-hung art work, and comfy, high-backed banquettes, all arranged around the zinc-topped bar and open kitchen that form a striking centre-piece, the overall effect is eclectic, but comfortingly so. In fact, the first feeling is one of relaxation and calm – no mean feat in a busy restaurant with the heat of the kitchen on display for all to see. But, in common with the rest of the restaurant, the chefs look remarkably calm throughout the evening – perhaps it's something to do with the snazzy Josper Grill on which they cook all the steaks and much of the seafood.
But it's not just the chefs; all the staff at Bistro du Vin are excellent – friendly, knowledgeable and enthusiastic. In particular, Romain Audrerie, the sommelier, is a real find. Previously Head Sommelier at Marcus Wareing's Savoy Grill, he seriously knows his stuff, but imparts his knowledge with a light touch. We're difficult customers, telling him that we always find ourselves drinking German Rieslings but fancy something a different. Unfortunately his first suggestion is from a producer we tried only two days ago, and my companion, the editor of the New London Cocktail Review, Kina Lillet, is a contrary lady and wants something new.
Unfazed, Romain potters off for a moment before returning with a bottle of Schiopetto's Friulano Collio, 2008, confident that it's not something either of us will have tried before. He's right. But we'll certainly be having it again. Stiff with mineral structure, it also displays complex floral notes, leavened by a discreetly acidic finish. It's a mature, idiosyncratic choice, and a real joy.
The food is more straightforward, but still of very high quality. I start with a salad of hot smoked salmon, two types of beetroot and horseradish crème fraiche (£6.50) – a great combination of flavours, but perhaps, surprisingly, a little bland. Ms Lillet opts for the ham hock and parsley terrine, accompanied by an excellent sauce gribiche, which again is good but seems to lack a little something.
From here, Ms Lillet goes for the grilled monkfish (£21.50), which is meaty, full of flavour and nicely matched with a saffron-hued shellfish sauce. I, meanwhile, opt for the man dish: a 500 gramme chunk of sirloin steak (£31) from the rather attractive Belted Galloway breed. Accompanied by excellent thin-cut fries and creamy peppercorn sauce, it's a classic dish, obviously, but well executed. It's a great piece of steak, perfectly cooked – charred on the outside, raw in the middle – and crammed with rich, smokey, beefy deliciousness. Neat touches like ensuring the fat has been well-crisped up even on a steak served blue show both thought and care, whilst a side of broccoli with hollandaise sauce (£4) is a little cracker.
Bistro du Vin isn't going to set the world on fire – it doesn't quite have the clarity of identity displayed by other locals like Hix or St John. But then it's not trying to – it's a bistro, and what it does, it does extremely well.
www.bistroduvinandbar.com
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