A complex exploration of power and vulnerability. Tom Jeffreys reports from the William Tempest show at London Fashion Week.
Something of a “hot ticket” this: the William Tempest Autumn/Winter 2010 catwalk show at London Fashion Week. Thanks to friends in high places, I'm front row next to the strikingly attired Bleu Mae from Fleur de Lis, just down from Peaches Geldof and Louise Roe (apparently) and opposite Sophie Anderton (again). Sounds of the wind not dissimilar to the spiritual scenes from Gladiator set a hushed tone, before the first model struts out and Justice kicks in.
William Tempest's collection – apparently inspired by the Queen of Sheeba and Islamic architecture – is bold, striking and visually powerful. Crisp, architectural structures surround the girls, both encasing them in the suggestion of something armoured and empowering them for battle.
Exaggerated hour-glass silhouettes and geometric shapes are accentuated by thigh-skimming hemlines, and the occasional floor-lengther. In one particularly strong piece these two are combined with complex asymmetry [top right].
The palette by and large sticks to black, navy, greys and silver, but contrast comes with dashes of jade and bone, complemented by an array of different textures. Metallics, leather, silks and satins combine with dexterity. Boldly but subtly styled by Rebekah Roy, Tempest's collection is about both vulnerability and confidence. This is protection that projects power.
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All images (except malachite): David Coleman for Vauxhall Fashion Scout.
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