Tom Jeffreys indulges in well-priced and expertly matched truffles at London's most romantic restaurant.
The nights they may be drawing in across London, as sleepy thoughts turn towards yuletide gluttony, but over in Piedmont, the piggies have been getting busy snuffling through the autumn leaves in search of delicious little stashes of buried treasure. Yes, it's November, which can mean only one thing of real note: it's truffle season. Every year the capital's finest chefs turn their attention to this autumnal delicacy, and prices can very quickly scale stratospheric heights. But one little place stands out: Clos Maggiore in Covent Garden.
Recently voted the most romantic restaurant in London, Clos Maggiore has regular rolling seasonal tasting menus, and from 14th to 27th November an extra-special six-course truffle tasting menu. And, frankly, at £59 (or £98 including wines matched by the head sommelier) it's an absolute steal for an evening so jam-packed full of truffley deliciousness.
Décor-wise, Clos Maggiore is one of those places that could seem a bit silly – lots of fake foliage overhead, twinkly little lights, wood panelling and artfully displayed Armagnacs – but with such splendidly soft, subtle lighting, it's actually rather lovely. Even just walking through to the tiny restaurant or pottering upstairs is imbued with a sense of discovery – with sequestered nooks and concealed crannies tucked away throughout.
Our six-course truffleathon kicks off in fine style with a delicate button mushroom and black truffle soup – the truffle providing a rich, earthy base perfectly echoed by the mushroom. It's served with a neat little cep and truffle brioche, and accompanied by a Viognier, whose light and peachy aromas twinkle atop the strong truffle whiff.
It's an accomplished and understated start to a wonderful meal, one of whose many memorable highlights includes a second course of seared wild scallops, that dissolve into the tongue alongside nutty, buttery, truffley crushed potato. It's a sumptuous, meltingly delicious dish, adroitly paired with a floral Gavi – one of three Piedmontese wines chosen by Clos Maggiore's friendly and fiercely talented sommelier.
Next up is another belter: perfectly pan-roasted wild sea bass, served crisp-skinned atop a foaming mush of salt cod and truffle, with a smidge of bite provided by a white bean casserole. It's a bold combination – each component would be delicious alone – but a hugely successful one. And such boldness is echoed by the decision to pair the dish with a red wine: a light, ruby-red Argentinian Barbera that gently lifts the delicate fish.
From here (and nearly full already) to rich and buttery oven roasted lamb fillet, with delicate little wodges of truffle gnocchi, roasted Jerusalem artichoke, and truffle sauce, leavened by occasional little hits of rosemary. This is the heart of the menu – all pungent autumnal forest floor – and emphasised by a 2005 Rioja that's alive with earthiness and compost.
The cheese course ramps things up a notch, with a layer of truffle running through a hefty slice of strong, creamy Brillat-Savarin. It's potent stuff, and there's possibly a little too much to go with the hazelnut and raisin toast and quince paste that provide the necessary fruity balance. Likewise, the dessert of almond and truffle tart is overwhelmingly sweet, although the accompanying truffle ice cream and truffle honey are both utterly delightful – the sweetness hits the tip of your tongue, then, a split-second later, a lingering waft of truffley goodness rumbles up the back of your throat. It's divine.
Nothing though can fault the chilled fragrance and date-syrup sweetness of the Burmester 10 year-old tawny port, or the honeyed notes of the Moscato Passito, whose peachy aroma brings us neatly back to the Viognier at the start. It's a cleverly understated touch, and typical of Clos Maggiore's excellent sommelier.
Throughout this wonderful banquet, the truffle has provided a base, a deep, thrumming bass, over which a succession of different ingredients have trotted and fleetingly flitted. It's a tricky balancing act, but one pulled off with deft execution and no little charm. You want truffles? Clos Maggiore is the place to go.
www.closmaggiore.com
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