Hush, Mayfair

Hush, Mayfair

by: Tom Jeffreys

Tom Jeffreys revisits an old teenage haunt.

Ah Hush. I remember coming here basically all the time when it first opened. When most people of my age would sneak nervously into the nearest Sam Smith’s pub and try their luck with a half pint of lager, my chums and I used to stroll brazenly into super-snazzy Hush, tucked away in Lancashire Court, just off Bond Street, and gorge on lobster, chips and d’Arenberg’s GSM. Oh what frightful little brats we must have been.

Anyway, ten years on I’m back at Hush to see what’s changed – in a way quite a lot, and also kind of nothing at all. The downstairs restaurant section has had a major overhaul: now light and airy, with soft creams, and artfully distressed mirroring, it’s a pleasant contrast to the more atmospheric upstairs bar and the comfy cushioned cubby-hole where I spent many a formative afternoon.

But, pleasantly, Hush is still the same. It still has that slightly aspirational snazziness – it’s the kind of place that reasonably cool thirty-somethings go when they’ve got cash and want to look stylish whilst supping some nice drinks. I think it’s part-owned by Roger Moore’s son – and if it’s good enough for him, it’s good enough for me.

But we’re not here to reminisce about old times; we’re here to sample the food. Sitting outside on a pleasant summer’s eve – the courtyard is abuzz with youngish, richish, coolish types – it’s clear why Hush continues to be so successful: whether you want a full restaurant meal, a bit of a snack or just a few drinks, it pretty much has all bases covered.

After some bread with great olive oil and some plump tasty olives, it’s starter time. My companion has gratin of maccaroni cheese (£7.50), which comes in a cute little copper saucepan and is apparently delicious. I opt – I don’t know why – for roast cabbage with saffron and black truffle (£7.50), and it’s not quite what I expected. I think I was envisioning something like they do in Fratelli Fresh in Sydney – all shredded and oily – whereas this cabbage is simply cut into two intimidatingly large halves. It is lovely – the flavours of the saffron and truffle strong and apt – it’s just that the presentation is a little odd. It’s also pretty darned filling for a starter.

For main course, my companion goes for the chicken, leek and morel shortcrust pie, which although great, is, at £14.50 with no accompaniments at all, a wee bit steep. I have steak tartare (£16.50).   And yes, I know it’s not the best dish upon which to judge a kitchen’s prowess, but it’s great. The flavours are well balanced, the spice well judged, and the steak meltingly tender. The waiter recommends a Chilean merlot and it’s a neat match. (It’s also good to see such an extensive array of wines offered by the glass – I’m pretty certain that’s new here.)

Pretty full by this stage, we share a dainty little dessert of upside-down vanilla and lemon cheesecake with lemon sorbet. It may seem an odd flavour combo, but surprisingly it works. As does Hush in general really. I can see why people don’t like it – with main courses getting up to nearly £30, it is quite expensive, but then this is Mayfair after all. I’d happily spent a lengthy, boozy afternoon here, followed by a spot of supper as the sun goes down. Oh to be 16 again.

17th August 2010.

www.hush.co.uk

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Tom Jeffreys