Kettner's, Soho

Kettner's, Soho

by: Tom Jeffreys

Tom Jeffreys visits a revamped Soho institution.

Everyone else who’s reviewed Kettner’s in its current incarnation has been at pains to point out how much it’s changed from when they first went there back in 1907 as penniless little hacks who couldn’t get into the Groucho.

The first time I came here was for the Tim Soar after-party during London Fashion Week less than a month ago. Obviously the place was full of fashionistas knocking back free cocktails (rather excellent ones I might add – although I’ve now no idea what they were), but it was also a fun place to be: glamorous, understated and with lots of different rooms to drunkenly explore.

So, as something of a newcomer to Kettner’s, I can’t comment on the pizza they used to serve or on how Napoleon once ate the heads of executed rivals here, or whatever it was. I can say though that I think the place is smashing. With moss-coloured banquettes, frilly-fringed vintage mirrors, bits of stucco and neatly mismatched furniture, it’s all rather elegant in an expensively understated way. Apparently Ilse Crawford is responsible – well kudos to her then, I say.

All this aside, the critics who’ve laid in to the food may have a point – it’s not going to blow you away. I kicked off with a hefty wedge of pork and rabbit terrine: texture-wise, excellent, but a smidge under-seasonsed, and the piccalilli was underwhelming. My classy blonde accomplice went for the rare tuna Niçoise salad, which was great, if a little intimidating in scale.

Her 10oz sirloin steak did everything one might expect, whilst my lobster was again a little bland. But then where else in London can you get a whole lobster for £20? My steamed ginger pudding came at the recommendation of our completely brilliant waitress Gosha, and was great – although I was pretty full by that stage. The chocolate fondant was, apparently, “ohmigod, fit”. A couple of bottles of limey, minerally Alsatian Riesling from a trim, well-judged wine list kept things flowing. And at £38 for what’s about £20 in shops, it’s perfectly reasonable.

Basically Kettner’s is fun and cool and I’d definitely be returning. Sure, the food’s not amazing. But who cares? Coming here feels like a classy little adventure, and I’d happily spend a whole evening here, before drunkenly tucking into a steak or something.

11th March 2010.

www.kettners.com

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Tom Jeffreys