London Fashion Week 2008

London Fashion Week 2008

19 September, 2008
by: Tom Jeffreys

S/S '09 shows report: b store / Soar

London Fashion Week: in the slightly prissy Georgian splendour of Home House, the Spring Summer '09 collections for Soar and b store are unveiled. As usual with such things, they're running late, but the frantic backroom scramblings are concealed from view by a well-oiled unit of black-clad PRs and a steady flow of croissants and Perrier-Jouer. It's 10am.

But the delays only add to the fun: the difference between feverish anticipation and studied ennui is – in Fashion World at least – a very minor one, and the champagne helps to flatten any apparent distinction. Anyway, come 11 (or is 11.30?) we take our seats and things soon get underway.

First up is b store. The inspiration for this collection is apparently Temple Island, just near Henley-on-Thames, and there's definitely a strong boaty direction: straw boaters, plenty of pleats and checks checks checks. Jewellery, wittily, is made of bits of silver cutlery and the whole thing is redolent of a long sunny English picnic. I wouldn't have been surprised to see the models scoffing scotch eggs and coronation chicken, but then this is a Fashion picnic after all. Food is very much frowned upon.

The looks are pretty similar for men and women: high waists, lots of linen and navy, trousers rolled up to reveal ankles and checked linings. It's all very bunting, very village fete, but trendy, obviously, and full of beautiful people. It's a fun and fresh collection, although at times it's sometimes a little fussy, a little too 'just so'.

Next on is Soar, and it's anything but fussy. This is designer Tim Soar's 'premiere sartorial close-up' (or first runway show, in normal-speak) and it's boldly minimal. Barring the odd cravat, there's nothing by way of adornment or unnecessary embellishment. It's quite Second World War almost, with faded camo-wear, netting, and one fabric particularly reminiscent of sand-bags and sappers. And yet it's super-modern at the same time.

Tailoring again is unfussy. Broad shoulders, blues, loose fits and high waists maintain the '40s feel while shorts and the occasional Hawaiian print (tastefully muted of course) evoke the return of the GIs and a desire to unwind. There's some fabulous navy knitwear, but the leisurewear element really comes into its own with the arrival of a caramel suede tracksuit that makes the model look like a super-chic version of Sebastian's teddy-bear Aloysius. It's kind of hilarious.

This is a very confident and relaxed collection. The styling by Jodie Barnes is simple, clean and understated and the fabrics are beautiful. While b store continues its upwards trajectory with a show that is posey and fun, Soar makes a mark with clean silhouettes and a nonchalant attitude.

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Tom Jeffreys