As the London Restaurant Festival comes to a close, Tom Jeffreys reviews a splendid concept, neatly realised.
Eating several massive helpings of trifle with that John Torode from Masterchef? Yes, it's all in a day's work for today's humble arts editors. In between racing round a load of art galleries during Frieze Week, I've been spending the remainder of my time living it up in the name of reviewing the London Restaurant Festival, which finished last night in an awards ceremony at Spitalfields Market.
The celebrity-accessorised trifle was part of something called a Gourmet Odyssey, which basically consisted of a leisurely lunch-time potter round three Shoreditch restaurants with a course at each one. Things kicked off at l'Anima, a clean, glass-fronted place hidden away in a kind of no-man's land between Old Street and Liverpool Street stations. After some champagne to kick things off (if there's one thing that beats champagne at 11.30am it's Negronis at 10.30...) it's onto the starter. This consisted of a plate of soft polenta with wild mushrooms and truffles – a richly warming treat on a crisp autumnal day.
From here we potter over to The Luxe, John Torode's other London venture (after Smiths of Smithfield). It's a wicked space, with basement music venue, ground-floor café-bar, and cute little terrace inside the market. There's even a florist and a chap making bacon butties, but it's up to the restaurant for us, and it too is lovely – sensitively attuned to the building's unique history. A main course of lavender chicken, honey and Chinese five spice is juicy and light – for me the highlight is the accompanying Alsatian Pinot Blanc. After this it's off to Hawksmoor for more anecdotes from the entertaining and easily likeable TV chef, as well as colossal bowls of delicious trifle which we all dive into with glee.
This wasn't the only part of London restaurant Festival worthy of mention though. There were all sorts of cool events going on, like a food quiz with Anne Robinson, a Bistrotheque pop-up in the Andaz Hotel, something involving Janet Street Porter (or was that a dream?) and a cool venture called Street Kitchen. We had the braised beef when they were in Spitalfields ans it was delicious. Quality, seasonal street food for £6.50 – you can't argue with that.
I also had a really enjoyable LRF menu dinner last week at Criterion last week. It's a strange place, Criterion – it's in one of the busiest places in town (right on Piccadilly Circus) and yet I'd never really heard of it. But good lord it's worth going to, if just for the stunningly grand interior alone. The food has a slightly retro charm – crab bisque and leek ravioli were both a little rich – but my Dover Soul was excellent, if a maverick choice given the Gewürztraminer I'd ordered. The staff were delightful too.
The whole festival finished last night with an entertaining awards ceremony at Spitalfields Market. Over 450 of London's foodie types gathered to munch food by Wahaca, sup Mumm champagne and, of course, to find out about all the winners from this year's London Restaurant Festival.
Since 4th October hundreds of participating restaurants have been offering specially discounted festival menus. A panel of judges including Giles Coren and Tim Haywood travelled round the capital and decided which of these menus they liked best – tough job huh... Last night saw awards for Caravan (for Warmth & Welcome); Viajante (for Bravery); and Dishoom (for Best Festival Menu Under £10).
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