The Gay Hussar, Soho

The Gay Hussar, Soho

30 June, 2011
by: Tom Jeffreys

Tom Jeffreys makes himself at home at a venerable Soho institution.

When it comes to London's so-called 'institutions' I always have reservations. And by that I don't mean I have tables across the capital automatically booked in my name every night – more's the pity; no, I mean that often all those 'iconic', 'cult' London 'institutions' are trading on a reputation that they've long since failed to live up to. Thankfully, however, semi-legendary Soho eatery The Gay Hussar is one place that bucks the trend.

First opened in 1953, The Gay Hussar became known as a hangout for boozy hacks and politicians stuffing themselves on expenses in the 1970s and '80s. The likes of Mick Jagger, Roy Hattersley, Will Self and Paul Foot have all frequented the Hussar – many of whom have been immortalised in a series of satirical portraits by Martin Rowson that currently adorn the restaurant's wood-panelled walls. There's rows and rows of books on show too – biographies of Ribbentrop and Nazi hunter Simon Wiesenthal face off against recent offerings by Mandelson and Blair. One can't help but wonder if a political point is being made here...

The success of The Gay Hussar has been built around the twin pillars of a warm welcome, offered these days by the helpful and understatedly charming John Wrobel, and hearty Hungarian fare, which, I have to say, is really bloody hearty. After starters, mains and a shared dessert I'm full enough to deal with the worst an Eastern European winter can throw at me. Which is basically the point in this kind of food.

Being indecisive types we kick off with a platter of assorted cold starters (£8.25) – including pickled herrings, peppery salamis, smoked sausagey things and some excellent pâté – and John also suggests we try the fish dumplings with rice and cream (£6.25). Of all the things on the menu this was probably the last thing I'd have chosen, but it's utterly wonderful – rich, yes, but also fresh-tasting and full of flavour.

For mains, my companion opts for the crispy roast duck (£17.50) which is perhaps a little dry, but full of flavour nonetheless, whilst the accompanying potato mush (enriched with some kind of animal fat) is beltingly delicious. I plump for the veal Wiener Schnitzel (£16.75), which brings back fond memories of my Aberdeenshire-based Granny, her thick Austrian accent, and maddeningly delicious schnitzels. This isn't quite in the same league, but what can compete with childhood nostalgia?

A delicately delicious side of pickled cucumbers (£4.50) and a sizeable poppy seed strudel (5.25) mean that by the end of the meal we're almost unable to move. Although of course we manage to find just enough room to polish off a really rather excellent bottle of Badacsonyi Riesling – very reasonable at £28.95. Up until now I'd only ever really encountered Hungarian wine in the form of honey-sweet Royal Tokaji, and it's great to see such an extensive list of other options available. It's this kind of subtle pride – also evoked in touches like the charming Hungarian-made floral crockery – that make The Gay Hussar what it is. There's no danger here of trading on reputation alone: this is one institution where having reservations is unquestionably a good thing.

www.gayhussar.co.uk

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Tom Jeffreys