Where to Drink Sherry in London

Where to Drink Sherry in London

01 November, 2011
by: Tom Jeffreys

Sherry? Sherry! Tom Jeffreys takes you on a rather educational tour round London's finest sherry bars.

Every food and booze writer worth their salt has written at least something about sherry in the past year or so, as the once derided fortified wine emerges swiftly as one of the most popular drinks in town. So we're not going to bore you with the whole “sherry isn't just warm gloop for funerals and alcoholic aunts” schtick; instead we're going to take you through the different types of sherry – from bone dry fino to the date-syrup sweetness of Pedro Ximenez. Because, apart from how delicious it is, one of the great things about sherry is how simple it is to get your head round the different varieties.

Oh, and we're also giving you a bit of advice on what to eat with the different sherries (although they're all delightful on their tod) and our favourite London bars in which to drink them. Sherry? Sherry!


Fino
Tio Pepe, Gonzales Byass (£3.90) @ Pinchito
It would make sense, you would think, to kick off with a glass of fino at the aptly named Fino in the West End, but being perverse, we're going East to Pinchito instead. Last time we were there, this friendly, bustling, vibrant little tapas bar was full of young Spanish types shouting at the football on the telly in ultra-authentic fashion. Crisp and cracklingly dry, Tio Pepe goes with anything (and nothing). This is, we're told, because the dryness of the sherry both stimulates saliva production and suppresses the tongue's salty taste receptors. Interesting huh?
Drink with: salty, spicy Pimientos de Padron (£5.50)




Manzanilla
La Gitana, Bodegas Hidalgo (£3.50) @ Barrica
Manzanilla (Spanish for little apple) is a type of fino that, due to a higher quantity of flor yeast, is a little less astringent and more gentle than the likes of Tio Pepe. But like Tio Pepe, La Gitana proves that, in the world of sherry unlike that of wine, the big names still present great quality and value for money. La Gitana (the gypsy) is available in any decent supermarket, but we suggest a trip to Barrica on Goodge Street. Take a seat outside or perch at the bar, and imbibe its softly savoury tang.
Drink with: Habas, dried, crispy broad beans (£1.95)




Amontillado
Antique Fernando de Castilla (£8.50) @ Moro
There are two types of Amontillado: the bad ('medium sherry' – the sweetened rubbish your aunty drinks) and the good – fino which begins to oxidise when the flor is allowed to die. This process emphasises the nutty flavours that are just discernible in Tio Pepe, and means Amontillados go rather well with things like chicken or rabbit. Head to the brilliant Moro on Exmouth Market for a wee glass with some of their excellent tapas.
Drink with: Sobrassada, a kind of cured pork sausage (£4.50)




Palo Cortado
Waitrose Solera Jerezana (£8.06 per bottle) @ home
As much as we at Spoonfed like eating and drinking out whenever possible, we also like a bargain. And few things encapsulate the amazing value for money of sherry than a bottle of the Waitrose own brand Palo Cortado. Palo Cortado was originally produced by accident, but is now sometimes a blend of amontillado and oloroso. This is the real stuff though – made entirely from Palomino grapes. Delicate, richly nutty, but with a long dry finish that leaves you wanting more, this is just a great wine. And at £8 a bottle, a complete steal. Keep a bottle in the fridge at all times.
Drink with: anything really – how about Waitrose's delicious fig-topped pork pie (£1.49)?




Oloroso Seco
1968 Vintage Oloroso, Gonzales Byass (£14.50) @ Bar Pepito
We first drank this little number at the launch of Bar Pepito, one of the spearheads of sherry's current revival, with none other than the MD of Gonzalez Byass. Made in strictly limited quantities, this vintage Oloroso Seco has the most exquisite balance of sweetness and acidity. Aromas of exotic spices – cinnamon, vanilla – fill the nose, whilst the finish is mouthwateringly dry. And now it's on sale at Pepito! But not for long once we get back down there...
Drink with: probably just on its own, but maybe some beef carpaccio (£7.25)




Oloroso Dulce
Matusalem, Gonzalez Byass (£7) @ José
Along with Pepito, José has probably the finest sherry menu of any bar in London. It's a wonderful place, but gets rather unpleasantly busy so we'd suggest getting there as early as you can. The tapas on offer is really delightful, but we're here for the sherry, and what could be better than the rare old Matusalem. Aged for around 30 years, this is a really classy, sweet oloroso: warming and luxurious and best served at room temperature. Surprisingly perhaps, it's an amazing pair for blue cheese.
Drink with: salty, blue Picos de Europa (£7, as part of a mixed cheese platter)




Jerez Dulce
1982 Don Pedro Ximenez Gran Reserva (£9.20) @ Fino
And finally to Fino – a chicly discreet sort of place just off Charlotte Street that's perfect for a spot of dessert. Named after the grape that produces it, Pedro Ximenez (PX) is the richest and sweetest of all the sherries. Brown-black, viscous and exotically perfumed, it's instantly recognisable. With 500 grammes of sugar per litre, the cheaper stuff can be a bit much, but this little cracker balances the dates and the figs with a much needed slice of acidity. One of the most distinctive drinks in the world, and the perfect way to finish our little sherry tour.
Drink with: Santiago Tart – a rich, almond-based tart (£6.50)



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Tom Jeffreys