Whitechapel Gallery Dining Room, Whitechapel

Whitechapel Gallery Dining Room, Whitechapel

19 October, 2011
by: Tom Jeffreys

The Whitechapel Gallery - come for the food, probably don't stay for the art, says Tom Jeffreys.

It's almost two years since I last saw an exhibition at the Whitechapel that really grabbed me – Sophie Calle's incredible Take Care of Yourself back in 2009 – but still it remains universally praised as one of London's great bastions of contemporary art. The Dining Room, however, has had a more chequered critical response in that time. It's already on its second head chef in the two years since it opened as part of the gallery's £13.5 million expansion – Maria Ella having been replaced by Angela Hartnett – and reviews have been a little mixed.

Perhaps that's simply down to the fact that restaurant critics are a harsher bunch than art critics; because on the day we visit – for Saturday lunch before Frieze Week kicks off in all its pomp – every single aspect is utterly without flaw.

The room itself is very small, but doesn't feel cramped (partly because it's not all that full) and the menu is similarly petite: a handful of pre-starter nibbles, eight starters, about the same for mains and four or five deserts. Wine-wise, there's about eight reds and eight whites, of which half are available by the glass and all are unusual. I opt for a Gavila Toledana Vendemmia (£6.95) mainly because I've never heard of it – it's crisply citrusy and delightful. There's also a reassuring emphasis on sustainability and local sourcing – the fish and chips consists of pollock not cod and it's nice to see Nyetimber sparkling wine from West Sussex – but it's never rammed down your throat.

And it's one of those menus where almost everything appeals – devilled kidneys on toast; courgette, hazelnuts and gramolata dressing; white onion veloute... After much dithering (thank God there aren't more options) I go for the chargrilled broccoli salad with treviso and walnut vinaigrette (£4.50) which is simultaneously delicate and firmly autumnal, while my companion, Kina Lillet, – keen to leave room for dessert – goes for a pre-starter of roasted garlic, mashed across some little bits of toast and topped with a splodge of whipped goats' curd (£3.25). I cannot tell you how delicious this is – the rich warmth of the garlic providing a sturdy base for the near-sour tints of creamy white curd. Honestly, I could eat these all day.

Surprisingly, after such a high point, nothing thereafter feels like a let-down. My guinea fowl (£13.95) is rich and lovely and perfectly cooked, although the highlight of the dish is actually the butternut squash batons – super-sweet and pungently caramelised. Ms Lillet's plaice (£13.95) is moist and light and, in a touch of daring and real class, served with a zippy mush of cider and stewed apple. Perfect. We also share some 'truffle' chips (£3.50), which, although light on truffle flavour, are nonetheless expertly executed. It may sound like faint praise, but they're the best chips I've had in an age.

For dessert, Ms Lillet goes for the apple and quince crumble with crème anglais (£4.95) – again it's a combination that shows both care and thought – and it's as crunchy-gooey as you could hope for. I opt for the buttermilk pudding (£4.95), which comes cutely served in one of those mini-Kilner jars. Not dissimilar to a pannacotta, it's light and lovely – the balance of sweetness and acidity in both desserts spot-on. It's a fittingly fine end to a really rather wonderful lunch.

Whilst the Whitechapel may be universally celebrated for its art, it's for the food that I'll be returning. And pretty darned soon I hope.

www.whitechapelgallery.org/dining-room

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Tom Jeffreys